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Reviewing the ingredients in this dish, you might assume it all sounds pretty bland. Don't be deceived as its magic lies in the way the milk slowly caramelizes while the pork is braised. Once cooked, the milk curdles and is transformed into a rich savory caramel.
In Italy, this dish is called
Arrosto di Maiale Al Latte and is often made with pork loin. While this cut holds together well and can be carved into attractive round slices for your plate, I find it a little too lean a cut for slow braising. As such, I prefer
pork shoulder (often called Boston butt). This cut results in a texture that is more complex, with bits of pork that literally melt in your mouth.
Everything has trade offs, however, as pork shoulder doesn't carve as neatly as loin. We therefore have to employ other tricks to make it look presentable on the plate. This entails not cooking it until if falls apart (think pulled pork) and wrapping it first in string to create a nice shape.
Although the traditional recipe calls for a little garlic, I prefer to add onion. It provides the same depth as garlic, but does not compromise the inherent sweetness of the dish. Other than onion, a smattering of herbs won't go astray. Sage is traditional, but thyme or marjoram also work well.
Earthenware, cast iron or a heavy-bottomed pot is best for this braise. They provide an even heat and are perfect for creating those golden brown milk curds that make the dish stand out.
Serves 6 people
2
lbs pork shoulder- a little oil, for browning
1
quart milk1
onion, quartered6-8
sage leaves, or other fine herb- fresh ground pepper
- about 2 tsp salt
Tie the pork shoulder (
demonstrated here). Although not essential, doing so will help the roast stay together and slice better once cooked.
The pork shoulder is tied and ready to be browned.
Place a large earthenware or cast iron dish over medium-high heat. Add a little oil and once hot, add the pork. Cook for five minutes or so, turning to ensure even browning on all sides. Once browned, drain any excess oil.
Evenly browned and glistening, it looks good enough to eat. Pity we have to wait two more hours.
Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered for two hours. About halfway through cooking, turn the meat over to ensure it cooks evenly.
This is how things look about halfway through cooking. At this point, I have a bit much liquid for my liking. I am going to turn up the heat a little to boil it away more quickly. This will hopefully result in great curds just as the meat is done.
Once the meat is tender, but not falling apart, it is cooked. At this point, the milk should have morphed into a thick smattering of golden brown curds. If not, remove the pork, and continue to simmer the milk until the curds are nice and thick.
It's cooked and looking great. The meat is holding together and the curds are perfect.
Cut away the string holding the pork together. Place on a chopping board and carve the meat into 1/4 inch slices. Transfer a few slices to each plate and top with a spoonful of curds.
Milk braised pork is great when accompanied with some
sweet and sour onions,
glazed carrots and a few salad greens, simply dressed.
The meat is tender and holding together. A few thick slices per plate is the order of the day.