Pipián, a variant of Mexican
mole, is a creamy green sauce made from toasted pumpkin seeds. When smothered on poached chicken, it's a delight.
Unlike famous moles like mole poblano that traditionally contain over twenty ingredients, pipián is easy to make. Toasted pumpkin seeds are blended with onion and chilies to produce a lush and creamy sauce.
This dish exemplifies an economy of preparation that so many old and classic recipes share. Simmering the chicken in water not only cooks the chicken, but creates a rich flavorful broth. This, in turn, is used to wet the pipián and possibly make a side of rice. Creating two dishes from the effort of one is efficient and above all tasty.
Serranos are the chili of choice in pipián as besides being green, they have a clean heat profile that compliments the pumpkin seeds. While not overtly hot, the addition of eight serranos contributes an authentic kick to the dish. Feel free to cut the number in half if you are sensitive of tongue.
Serves 4 people
1
chicken, cut into 8 pieces (or equally convenient, 8 pieces of chicken)1
white onion, cut into quarters2
cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half2-3
tsp salt, depending on the size of the chicken
2
cups (10 oz) green pumpkin seeds8
serrano chilies, without stem1
small white onion, cut in half2-3
cups broth from above1
tsp salt to taste1/4
cup cilantro
In a pot, add the chicken pieces, onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes until the chicken pieces are cooked. While cooking, scoop off any scum that floats to the surface.
Once cooked, remove the chicken from the broth, cover and set aside. Strain the broth and reserve. Discard the onion and garlic.
The chicken is poached and we have a great broth. Time to move on to the sauce.
If you are serving rice, now would be a good time to get that started using some of the broth you don't need for the pipián. Cook the rice according to the package instructions, using the chicken broth in place of water.
Place a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast them for a few minutes. As they toast, they will pop. Keep stirring them around in the pan to ensure even browning and prevent burnt bits. Once the seeds are pale brown all over, remove from heat and transfer to a blender.
A lush sea of untoasted green pumpkin seeds.
The same seeds after being toasted for a few minutes. There are very few overly brown spots due to constant attention and stirring.
Return the frying pan to the heat. Chop the onion in half and place it cut side down on the pan. Add the serrano chilies alongside. Cook for a few minutes, turning the chilies to blacken them on all sides. Once sufficiently blackened, remove the chilies and onion from the pan.
The onion and serrano chilies have a perfect amount of blackening. This will contribute wonderfully to the flavor of the sauce.
Rough chop the onion and chilies and add to the blender atop the pumpkin seeds. Pour in two cups of the reserved broth and blend until smooth.
The pipián paste, once blended. For a smooth and creamy texture, add only enough liquid to get the sauce moving in the blender. You can thin it down to a saucy consistency after you transfer it to a pot.
Transfer the sauce to a pot and thin with water or more broth to the consistency of ketchup. Add salt to taste. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about five minutes until the sauce thickens slightly and the onion cooks out.
Add the chicken, turning it over in the pan to coat with sauce. Continue to simmer for a few minutes until the chicken is properly reheated.
Place the cilantro in a blender with about 1/4 cup water. Blend until smooth and the water is green. Add to the pot containing the pipián and stir gently to combine. Serve immediately before the cilantro cooks out and its color dulls.
The addition of cilantro at the end of cooking adds a fresh flavor as well as brightens the color of the sauce.
Serve with corn tortillas, some rice and an array of traditional
Mexican side dishes - perhaps some
white beans and a few grilled scallions.