Rabbits come wild or farmed. Rabbit does not have an overly gamey flavor and taste like a robust chicken. This is especially true of farmed rabbits. Due to their robust flavor, rabbits go well with strong spices such as juniper and rosemary. They are also good braised with sweet vegetables such as carrots or parsnips.
Rabbit is a very lean meat. As they are sold skinned, there is no protective layer of fat that will melt into the animal as it cooks. This poses problems of dryness when cooking that must be overcome if a great dish is to result.
To purchase a good rabbit, it is best bought fresh. Butchers will often leave the liver attached and prominently displayed as an indication of freshness. Look for a rabbit whose liver is shiny and plump.
A young rabbit will weight about two pounds, are better for sauteeing and roasting. Older rabbits, which weigh up to four pounds, are best for stews and braises.
EditCuts of a rabbit and their preparation
A rabbit can naturally divided into three sections - front legs, hind legs and saddle. The front and hind legs are much tougher than the saddle and so take will to a slow braise.
The front legs are best braised, but not for too long, as they are really lean. Try cooking them wrapped them in bacon or caul fat. Also shredding them and then remixing with stock or braising liquid, is a great way to re-moisten them.
The hind legs are much bigger than the front legs and require a bit more cooking. This cut is also lean so takes well to being confitted in fat.
The saddle of a rabbit is really the only tender bit, and is best cooked quickly. Roast or grill the saddle on the bone, or saute it off the bone. Either way, watch it closely as it dries out quickly.
EditA quandary
As there is not much meat on a rabbit, and because rabbits are sold whole, it become difficult to serve a specific cut of rabbit to a number of guests. For example rabbit saddle for four people would require the purchase of four rabbits and leave you with a mountain of unused front and hind legs.
To solve this problem, many restaurants will serve half a rabbit per person, one front leg, one hind leg and half a saddle. Each cut will be prepared differently and then brought back together on the one plate. Although involving more labor, it is an excellent solution to the problem. Another solution would be to serve two courses of rabbit, with one type of cut per course.